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Behind The Scenes Interview With Green Embassy Designer & EFWA Founder Zuhal Kuvan-Mills

July 21, 2018

by Marilyn R. Wilson

Your journey to fashion design was unique to say the least as you were a textile artist first. Can you share a bit about how your move to fashion came about?

Where did my fashion journey begin – in Daegu!

I was sent to Korea by the government of Western Australia (WA) to represent WA in Korea as a textile artist and designer of Atelier Zuhal .  I met with fashion designers for the first time during the event week. My textile art was the centre of attention but also a disappointment for many fast fashion designers who realized that it wasn’t available in large enough quantities to work to them. My exhibition space was full of Korean textile students listening my presentations.

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The handmade gown I was wearing was also a centre of attention. I had created it just to show off my textile art. On the way back home during the flight, I was thinking about the suggestion by a German fashion designer who liked my gown and textiles, “You are an artist, Why not have a go yourself?’’ Why not? After all fashion is 3D textile sculpture as far as I was concerned, so I decided to focus on creating wearable forms of my textiles while still staying Eco.

Soon after the Korea trip I was invited to a fashion show to show my work. In one week – all by myself in my studio – I created eight garments for this first series from the textiles I had just shown in Korea. Luckily I had the technical skill. My first collection is named- ‘’ Night in the Bush’’ (you can see it in my portfolio at Green Embassy - Night in the Bush)

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Why was it important to you to offer a sustainable, responsible, eco fashion line?

I love all animals, so I wanted to become a Veterinary Surgeon. Then because of my passion for the environment and conservation of the planet and all its flora and fauna, I taught animal conservation and ecology for many years. in England.

As a creative person, my move to visual arts didn’t change anything. My passion for protecting the environment and wildlife became my artistic concept. Now it has become my mission as a fashion designer. I can talk visually and deliver my concept to millions via runways. It wasn’t enough for me to work in veterinary clinics, higher education classrooms or Art Galleries. Green Embassy is my visual language and each piece is my lesson to educate others in conservation and sustainability. I just hope many good students are out there to hear and embrace this lesson.

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How do you incorporate ideals such a Zero Waste into your work?

All my fabric cut are utilized. Each of my collections consist of accessories created from fabric scraps and I always create new ones such as with Silent Rainforest. Tiny fabric pieces became bow ties inspired by the butterflies of the forest. With the Earth series, fabric scraps become elaborate head pieces. In the Connected to Land series, they became textile jewellery. In my latest collection, all left overs are going to be fashioned into headpieces

What can we look forward to seeing on the runway in November 2018?

My new collection is inspired by THE IUCN  RED List of threatened species ( also known as IUCN Red List  or Red Data List). Founded in 1964, this list has evolved to become the world’s most comprehensive inventory of the global conservation status of biological species. I have focused on our very own endangered species - the ones belonging to Perth - the Carnaby’s  Black-Cockatoo. This beautiful bird has white tail panels, white cheek patches and lives only in Southwest Australia where large scale land clearing for farming has fragmented much of its habitat, particularly mature eucalypts such as salmon gum and wandoo that have suitable hollows for nesting .

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My new collection will be black and white only , light, majestic and delicate with textures created by the application of embroidery, nuno felting, knitting and crochet on fabrics including silk organza, organic cotton, alpaca, and merino wool as well as op shop fabrics, and old curtains.

How do you help customers understand the higher cost of sustainable garments when they are so inundated with sweat shop-produced cheap merchandise?

There is no such thing as sustainable garments costing  higher...it's true. The real cost when producing in an ethically and environmentally friendly manner is reflected in the price. My customers understand this and look after their Green Embassy piece so it will last for generations, as these garments are not cheap or disposable. They are proudly created in Australia -  a single fibre, to a textile by an artist and then to finished pieces by skilled  Australian couturiers

                      Jewellery created from fabric scraps for her Connected to the Land Series

                      Jewellery created from fabric scraps for her Connected to the Land Series

Over the last 4 decades, creation of low-cost disposable clothing in an unethical, unsustainable way while abusing human rights, our oceans and our environment only helps to condition people that  garments are worth nothing because they are so cheap.

Do you incorporate sustainable living in other areas of your life?

We are living as a family,  and my Green Embassy studio is located,  on a hobby farm on the outskirts of metropolitan Perth City. This six acres of organic land provides us with plenty wood for winter and alpacas droppings for compost to improve the quality of our soil. We are careful of water consumption in our dry city, keep pet chickens (totally free range and all of them have names) , grow our own fruits, herbs and recycle my studio water in our garden flower bed. Our majestic eucalyptus trees are home to many bird species

         Green Embassy Collection shown at Eco Fashion Week Australia 2017 in Perth

         Green Embassy Collection shown at Eco Fashion Week Australia 2017 in Perth

Please share how the you came to found and organize the first ever Eco Fashion Week Australia in 2017?

It was four years ago that my application to show at Perth Fashion Week was rejected. I was told they were not interested in showing the work of Eco designers. I was also told the Eco fashion business is not sustainable,  I had already shown in many other countries, so decided it was about time Australia should have a national Eco fashion Week of our own  that would involve our large community, designers, artists, schools and local governments. It would not be based on trade show principles or only appeal to hand full of fashionistas. I quickly realized many people had a similar passion. Strangely enough, far too many people were already just awaiting for the magic to happen at our quiet mining city. It was like starting a small spark that quickly turned into a bush fire.

I am so excited to be in the middle of organizing our second year and it's going to be amazing. For 2018, Eco Fashion Week Australia will now be held in two states - Western Australia and Queensland.  Our Port Douglas event will run from Nov. 4-10th and our Perth event will run from Nov. 15-21st.

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You have created the Anita Moon awards to honour Australian Emerging Designers, Student Designers, Home Sewers . Please share a little bit about who Anita Moon was and the inspiration behind these awards.

Anita Moon was an Australian artist originally from Queensland and a neighbor of mine for eight years. She was my closest friend. We had so much in common, especially our love for nature, wildlife animals and art. She often used to pop in for morning coffee and listen to me patiently for many hours as I shared my crazy ideas, looked at my work and supported me when I was down. On one of those mornings when I was complaining about that we didn’t have our own Eco fashion show and I had to fly other side of the world to show my work, she suggested an Eco fashion week in Perth. Moon was also very keen on good education for care of the environment and wildlife, so we both agreed that education should be a focus at Eco Fashion Week Australia, not just the amazing fashion designs.

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Eco fashion and art will provide inspiration to the public and younger students in Australia for years to come. Going forward it will encourage young designers to embrace an Eco path. Before she passed, Moon had a chance to learn about the establishment of Eco Fashion Week Australia. She left too suddenly. Sometimes I feel all this work is too hard, but then I remember she believed in me and always told me you must do it. I also am grateful for the many designers supporting this dream and the many friends and numerous community members as volunteers who are working to help her dream come true. I am grateful to everyone and feel I owe it to her to complete this mission. The Anita Moon Awards were created to inspire our youth and anyone else to go one more step ahead , refuse to settle for less .She was always an encouragement to me.

This year we have sponsors for the Anita Moon Awards,  providing Australian Student and Emerging Designers two weeks of residential work experience and a designer in residency at farm studios,  with flights and full board covered.  The sponsors are: Curtin Springs Paper - Best Student Award  and Green Embassy - Best Emerging Designer Award.

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Education is an important part of EFWA. What do you hope attendees take away from this event?

They will see how fashion can be beautiful, trendy and luxurious while still being Eco friendly. EFWA will teach them about sustainable living – making a conscious choice to embrace sustainability when purchasing clothing, insisting on ethical production and caring for the environment and wildlife. EFWA is also working to inspire those working with traditional textile art and craft.

Every EFWA also includes our Disposable Planet Eco Seminars to educate public during the event week. The seminars are held at a local University and presented by industry experts and academics.

                               Taking a bow at the end of the first ever EFWA in Nov. 2017

                               Taking a bow at the end of the first ever EFWA in Nov. 2017

Links:

  • Atelier Zuhal – www.atelierzuhal.com
  • Green Embassy – www.greenembassy.com.au
  • Instagram –@greenembassy & @ecofashionweekaustralia
  • LinkedIn – Zuhal Kuvan-MillsFacebook EFWA - https://www.facebook.com/ecofashionweekaustralia/
  • Facebook, Green Embassy - https://www.facebook.com/greenembassyfashion/
  • LinkedIn – Zuhal Kuvan-Mills
  • Twitter – @greenembassyau & @AtelierZuhal & @ecofashionaus
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Behind the Scenes with Designer Sheridan Joyce of Skylark The Label

July 20, 2018

by Marilyn R. Wilson

What drew you to become a fashion designer?

From a young age I was introduced to sewing by my mother, this combined with a love of the arts developed into an interest in fashion illustration that I eventually attempted to bring to reality.

Why was it important to you to offer a sustainable, responsible, Eco fashion line and how do you incorporate ideals such a Zero Waste into your work?

During my undergraduate studies at Curtin University I came across sustainable design practices during my Sustainable Fashion unit. This unit opened my mind to the importance of contemporary designers owning the responsibility of how they design, in regards to the impact the design will have during production and afterwards. From this I found that for my work to have more meaning it needed to include conscious design as a standard. The first assessment I had in that unit was an 'A.P.O.C.' challenge a lot of people saw this as quite limiting however I through my research I stumbled across zero-waste design and was intrigued by the idea of challenging oneself to use all of a given piece of fabric.

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From there I ended up continuing my studies with an Honours project that was aiming to highlight the commercial feasibility of zero-waste design and slow fashion textile techniques. Through this research I became very familiar with how shapes work around the body which assisted in developing 'patterning maps' that had these shapes tessellating into a given piece of fabric. It was a natural progression to incorporate  these ideas into a label, SKYLARK.

Where do your find inspiration for new work?

Generally from natural sources, however since my Honours project I have developed an affinity for delving into my ancestral links to Norwegian culture. Last collection my inspiration was the mirror-like quality of the fjord waters, however this upcoming collection my inspiration has turned towards the Norwegian wintery darkness and the Aurora Borealis.

What materials do you work with – organic, reclaimed, etc.?

At the moment I am working with a mixture. The idea is to eventually only use natural organic fibres, however at the current time I am using a combination of silks, wool and cottons with recycled polyesters. In regards to the recycled polyesters, they were sourced through local Perth-based businesses that were discarding them.

What are the biggest challenges you face as an sustainable designer?

Adhering to Zero-Waste Design practices is quite challenging o n the design front but otherwise I would say the preconceptions of what sustainable fashion is. The phrase 'sustainable fashion' has somewhat of a stereotype of being unstylish, during my honours I was constantly needing to explain my designs and change people's ideas of what 'sustainable fashion' was. Luckily sustainable fashion has come a long way in the past couple of years so I am finding I need to do this less and less.

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What are the biggest challenges you face as an sustainable designer?

Adhering to Zero-Waste Design practices is quite challenging o n the design front but otherwise I would say the preconceptions of what sustainable fashion is. The phrase 'sustainable fashion' has somewhat of a stereotype of being unstylish, during my honours I was constantly needing to explain my designs and change people's ideas of what 'sustainable fashion' was. Luckily sustainable fashion has come a long way in the past couple of years so I am finding I need to do this less and less.

How do you help customers understand the higher cost of sustainable garments when they are so inundated with sweat shop-produced cheap merchandise?

Particularly with my personal clients I am very transparent with my pricing so they can understand that while I can't price pieces the same as mass-produced brands, because more time and quality has gone into the piece it has a higher value. I only present my garments as artisanal pieces that are made to be kept as opposed to cheaper fashions that lend themselves to a disposable culture.

What can we look forward to seeing on the runway at Eco Fashion Week Australia?

This year SKYLARK is attempting to be bigger and better. I am really excited to be presenting the new collection .NORDLYS., inspired by the long periods of night during the Norwegian winters and the phenomina of the Northern Lights. Despite the wintery subject matter the intention of this collection is to follow a trans-seasonal aesthetic with layering potential, that is accessible to the modern day woman.

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How do you incorporate sustainable living in other areas of your life?

For the most part I engage with sustainability through my designs, the dream is to adopt a more zero-waste lifestyle to match in a couple of years. I favour naturally and ethically sourced skincare and hair care products that do not engage in animal cruelty with minimal/recyclable packaging. I also try and minimize my carbon footprint with travel around Perth, using public transport as much as possible or driving my Hybrid car when necessary. Little things like taking a reusable travel cup and committing to reusing canvas bags makes a difference in terms of producing necessary waste. I am terrible at cooking but a huge aim for me is to get into the habit of meal preparation, as this will significantly cut down my produced waste from buying food on the go.

Anything else you would like readers to know?

SKYLARK is finally going to have a web presence, aside from the existing e-commerce platform KIYAKAYA (http://www.kiyakaya.com/skylark-by-sheridan-joyce). This website will include a portfolio of SKYLARK's current and past collections along with a blog that will range from discussions of sustainable design practices, fashion sustainability in general as well as the making process and visual diary unpacking inspiration and interesting textile processes.

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Links -

  • Website COMING SOON https://skylarkthelabel.wixsite.com/conscious
  • Facebook https://www.facebook.com/skylarkthelabel/
  • Instagram @skylarkthelabel
  • LinkedIn https://www.linkedin.com/in/sheridan-joyce-3a6827124/
Tags: Eco Fashion Week Australia 2018, EFWA 2018, fashion designer, designer interview, eco designer, Skylark the label, sheridan joyce, perth, Australia, interview, eco fashion
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