ECO FASHION WEEK AUSTRALIA 2017: STUDIO MEMBRANE BY HIROAKI TANAKA

by Patti DeSante

Eco Fashion Week Australia 2017 runway photos by Harry Leonard Images


“The goal of  EFWA was to ignite and inspire attendees to change their perspective on fashion. Rallying against the notion that Eco fashion is all hemp and granola, EFWA presented only the most creative, artistic and beautiful sustainable designs.”

Straight up!!! Mr Hiroaki Tanaka of Studio Membrane (center) embodied this intention of EFWA2017 and then BLEW IT UP!

Straight up!!! Mr Hiroaki Tanaka of Studio Membrane (center) embodied this intention of EFWA2017 and then BLEW IT UP!

In Japanese Zen tradition, there is the mantra from the Heart Sutra that I feel compelled to share that relates closely to Mr. Tanaka’s design ethic.

Gate, Gate, Paragate, Parasamgate Bodhi Svaha…Gone, Gone, Gone Beyond, Utterly Gone Beyond...Awaken.

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Just prior to Mr. Tanaka accompanying aboriginal leaders into the Australian bush to learn and gather natural elements that he used in creating the final look in his collection at EFWA 2017 entitled, “Useless Beauty, ” I had the privilege of sitting with and exploring how this humble man, who bows to me in greeting, understands and perceives how “Everything in life can be infused into fashion design.”

The overall consensus amongst most sustainable designers is that a radical reassessment of the human situation is needed. For Mr Hiroaki, the clothes we wear represent the philosophy or consciousness of the person wearing them.

Similar to the Zen Buddhist text, “The Tenzo Kyokun,” or its English translation equivalent,”Instructions to the Cook,” what we choose to adorn ourselves tells as much about us, as what we eat and how we go about preparing our food. Both the practice of clothing and feeding ourselves are fundamental to us as human beings, and can either be devotional or destructive to planet and community well-being.

Zuhal Kuvan Mills of Green Embassy and Founder of EFWA and Mr. Tanaka preparing the final piece.

Zuhal Kuvan Mills of Green Embassy and Founder of EFWA and Mr. Tanaka preparing the final piece.

Both practices challenge us to go beyond the energetic of instant gratification that defines our current, "Fashion Minding."  Eco-fashion demands that we develop a level of intimacy with all aspects of the fashion chain. It requires the elegance, and steadfastness associated with a membrane whose role is to separate and facilitate communication between two worlds with effortlessness and power.

I had prepared numerous questions based on Marilyn Wilson’s interview with Tanaka. I am eager to understand this man’s fashion mind, but without a translator, our communication through language was restricted. We smiled warmly at each other with soft eyes and found another way.

Three questions did land and offered us an intimacy of genuine communication that is rarely experienced even when two people speak the same language.

 

What does it mean to you to be a human being?

It is what I am wearing now. I am wearing my mind. All of what I wear consists of my identity.

 

What membrane are you wearing right now that connects your body with your humanity and truth?

"My glasses." He spoke about how the actual physical distance between two human beings plays a role in how we see and judge each other. When you see his glasses from a distance they look circular and simple in the construct. Closing the distance between us and the circle transforms into a sharp-edged octagonal form. A human being is both simple and complex. The closer we get to an object, the object becomes subject and the details reveal and I and thou. Everything in life is in the details.

 

When someone dies what do you think happens?

(He gets his translator out on his phone. He really wants clarity. This is the exact translation.)

“The body vibrates...take over the vibration from parents...meet and influence others and meet with vibration...when vibration stops we physically die. However, the vibrations propagate other people living.”

This membrane of ordinary/extraordinary clothing offers us a living narrative of our life both on a micro and macro level as evidenced by the response to the first two questions. How we express our life through our ongoing relationship with what we wear further has the power to generationally connect us on a vibrational frequency that is infinite in its power to influence our personal and planetary evolutionary story.

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"The very commonness of everyday things harbours the eternal marvel and silent mystery of God.” - Karl Rahner

The guttural sound of the didgeridoo, aboriginal dancers, chanters and cosmic storytellers led and suspended the audience in a runway opening that connected us to the sounds and stories of the universe both birthing itself as it birthed Studio Membrane’s, "Useless Beauty."

“It was out of the dynamic of cosmic celebration that we were created in the first place. We are to become celebration and generosity, burst into self-awareness. What is the human? The human is a space, an opening, where the universe celebrates its existence.” ― Brian Swimme, The Universe Is a Green Dragon: A Cosmic Creation Story

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The celebrations begins... Each model's steps mirrored an evolutionary moment of humanities' shared cosmology.
<em>From the initial purity and freedom offered in all beginnings, the pieces are flowing and open and free of any stitches or potential imperfections...to the body-hugging and colour diversity, symbolically mirroring evolution’s progression to individuation and differentiation that ultimately enable us as humans to gaze back on ourselves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the sensuous expression of flow and further differentiation...

...to shared essences of humanity; fertility, passion, fullness and emptiness.

 

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From cultural diversity to the pure ground sourcing all diversity...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...to emptiness as the source of all creativity...

 

 
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...to the final pieces that offered us the highest level of humanity’s woven integrated expression centred and flowing from one heart.

 

There was so much depth to this fashion offering that it could truly become the foundation of a PHD thesis.

One Love is the only way to complete this fashion truth. It offered us a narrative of how things came to be, how they came to be as they are, and how the future can offer us direction where
diversity is woven as grace and love. We need clothes that will educate us, that will heal us and guide us.

You can see Studio Membrane's runway at Eco Fashion Week Australia HERE

MALAWI MALOTO PART 5 – MEET VIVETTA BY LAURETTA DESIGNS

by Patti De Sante

Runway Images from Eco Fashion Week Australia 2017 in Perth by Harry Leonard Imagery

Malawi; “Warm Heart of Africa”- Maloto; meaning dreams in local Chichewa language

What are the dreams of these modern day fashion warriors?

By warrior, I do not mean an aggressive person. A warrior is genderless, fearless and gentle, a defender of all things that are good for the planet and all of her inhabitants. In this series, I will be introducing you to five warrior fashion spirits who were invited to walk the runway at Eco-Fashion Week Australia, 2017.

 

Vivetta by Lauretta Designs

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“Every new Fashion is a refusal to inherit, a subversion against the oppression of the preceding Fashion.” -Roland Barthes

I make clothes to make everyone feel beautiful! Malawian fabric and Malawian mindset! Proudly Malawian. Proudly African ❤❤viviettades@gmail.com

I met Lauretta the first day I flew into Malawi, 2017. She was showcasing her latest collection at an international fashion week. In spite of limited lighting, her pieces were a standout and were met with wide applause.

We meet again in Blantyre, the business centre of Malawi and where I lived for 8 months in 2016. She is the oldest of three and has just finished an accounting degree along with pursuing an active career in design.

An invite to FAME in 2015 jump-started her career. FAME is a unique showcase – a collaborative art project that produces an annual exhibit profiling the original work of fashion designers, outlets and accessories artisans.

Her mom originally taught her to sew but she really feels like she is coming into her own this year at 24. She now teaches people how to sew and has become a female African millennial mentor.

She sees her clothes as an inspirational hub.

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“We are rebelling. Fashion is a rebellious movement where we are expressing our creativity. We need to reinvigorate a Malawian made textile industry.”I try to use only Malawian fabric but it is tough when our textile industry has declined due to cheap labour elsewhere.”

She resonates with other revolutionaries. “Right now we have a very wide canvas here in Malawi. Competition is lower. The fewer you are the wider you can test the boundaries.”

She again speaks highly of Lily Alfonso, although not currently mentored by here. She states clearly, “Lily is a door opener.”

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And last but not least, me picking up the looks to take to Eco-Fashion Australia Week. We hug and laugh joyously.

My prayer for these five designers. May they be celebrated at Eco-Fashion Week Australia 2017. May this celebration flow in 10 directions to help them realise and resource their own dreams for self and community.

Thank you to Zuhal Kuvan Mills for providing such a generous platform of faith to foster the dreams and healthy economic development of Malawi. Blessings always to her and all the organisers who dreamt this inaugural platform to fruition.

 
 

Left - Steve Camron, Center - Orama photography

May all beings everywhere be happy and free.

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Patti De Sante travelled to Perth, Australia, with 21 designs from these five fashion designers to promote their work, to highlight the beauty of Malawi located in southeast Africa and to share the countries current progress in gender equality. Patti both showcased these designers, her first go at a runway show and blogs for the fashion platform. As an ordained zen buddhist chaplain and gender activist living in Malawi, she explores, “How fashion devotion develops the three minds of the Buddha and contributes to community health and happiness.” #bigmind #joyfulmind #kindmind