EFWA 2017 Graduate Designers – Scholarship Winners
Eco Fashion Week Australia’s founder Zuhal Kuvan-Mills has chosen to support young fashion talent by offering a scholarship program to Australian fashion design students in their final year of studies. Successful applicants will each show 6 looks on the runway at EFWA2017 – a great experience for the new designers and an amazing chance to catch the media eye. Please check back as more scholarship winners will be announced shortly.
D’arcy Coad –
Concept and Ideas: My work explores qualities of mourning and it’s appropriate attire, drawing heavy influence from historicism to create a space for my work to reside in that explores memory, miasma and melancholia. To juxtapose the weight of these ideas, exploration into the irony of the ‘danse macabre’ sees me push silhouettes into a state of extreme gesture on their own; the garments almost dance on their own accord. Exaggerating proportions, incorporating knife/claw like shapes and accentuating amorphous and bloated forms explores a playful element that comes from the ‘danse macabre’. This proposes a quality of oddness that I like to explore, as individual garments and even whole looks become part of a cabinet of curiosities that make up the collection of work. This also highlights my use of garment as anatomy, using formal qualities to evoke the internal working of the human biology without being too literal. What is important is to not push a strongly historical silhouette, allowing the work to contain that same essence of drama, theatre and suspense without it being a recreation. Coinciding with my research into dandyism to evoke character and qualities of nihilism, extracting specific elements of historical attire means the work itself becomes less weighted. This heightens the combination of rich drama against frivolity where use of gesture is significant, unveiling an obscure sense of the collaged and obscure.
Jack Gardner –
Concept and Ideas: My collection is inspired by the reflection of light in relation to garment and the qualities present within both the static and organic almost dancing reflections created when light is reflected off of or through a surface. Working with intersecting lines, shapes and the multiple layers present within a reflection and the way they work together to create varying levels of opacity as inspiration for strong angled pattern making and linear forms with a focus of layering sheer silks to create varying levels of opacity, as well as exploring the difficulties of taking an intangible phenomenon such as the reflection of light and how you’d translate it onto the body and whether it would still be possible for it to function as a traditional garment while retaining these qualities. All garments have been designed, cut and sewn by myself using only natural cellulose fabrics such as cotton and silk in order to stay true to the idea of a natural phenomenon.
Jane Ziemons, Melaleuca Rise –
Concept and Ideas: This capsule collection is a personal exploration into my Scottish cultural heritage and the impact of this on creating new connections to people and place. It is a narrative collection that visually represents the transitional experience of the migrant that extends far beyond my own journey. Aspects of my personal association with Scottish tartan, the thistle (Scotland’s national emblem), the eucalypt (connection to the Australian landscape) and the kilt are explored. I have also used a selection of deconstructed garments that, through movement on the body, demonstrate the awkwardness of arriving in a new country. I have explored silhouettes that visually represent feelings of loss. Other pieces include heavy weight fabrics creating a tactile experience for the wearer that suggests the feeling of being grounded. All fabrics have been carefully and thoughtfully chosen with an ecological awareness towards lessening waste, using natural cellulose fabrics such as cotton and linen alongside factory offcuts sourced from REmida (a local recycling centre). All pieces have been designed, cut and sewn by Jane Ziemons.
Katherine Tavener, Tav by K
Concept and Ideas: My work explores x-rays and a shifting space between communication and intimacy. I use layers to build up these “walls” between the wearer and the viewer, using transparent materials, silks and recycling velvet off cuts. I use flannelette shirts from op shops and hand stitch in lips as a motif for communication. I use free hand embroidery stitch to build up a lace like fabric which I intend to have finished very soon, spending hours at a time embroidering wash away bags to create my own fabric. I like to emphasise seams and edges and often leave them raw and “unfinished with care” creating a fringed effect to highlight the coming together of the panels.
Llynnette C. Neil
Concept and Ideas: My recollections of the war years between 1943, the year of my birth, until the end of World War 11 is the basis for my concept of hand crafted eco wear. I have created functional hard-wearing garments, referencing the role of women especially those in the Women’s Land Army. Locally sourced vintage table linen, sheets, war time Rayons and vintage sewing patterns have been used to create utilitarian garments that are relevant to the era. Traditional sewing techniques such as hand stitched buttonholes and covered buttons have been adhered to making sure that the handmade element is dominant in the garments. Make do and Mend was an essential part of life therefore I have also sourced hand spun wool knitted into socks and mittens, again using locally sourced knitting patterns relevant to the era. By following all the essential criteria to create these garments I hope to have referenced a moment in time reflecting the sense of frugality and resourcefulness and respect of making that was a way of life for us during the 1940’s. All pieces have been created and sewn by myself and exist as 1 off pieces made with love and warmth.
Concept and Ideas: Pei-Sun SWIM offers ethically conscious customers cool, lux and leisurely pieces ready for you to dive into the deepend. An alternative to buying lycra that is detrimental and toxic for our environment upon reaching landfill, I offer quality Australian designed and Made in Australia swim wear using recycled Lycra fabric. Optional SPF 15-50+. For my first ever launch, I am offering limited edition printed ensembles. Individual one-off artworks are hand painted using watercolour before being transferred into a digital format, ready for sublimation printing. The first print is a revival of an old watercolour painting of poisoness frogs and the second print is inspired by coral structures drawing attention to pollution effected/protected areas including places I love Ningaloo Reef, Coral Bay, The Great Barrier Reef and Deforrestation. PEI-SUN MEETS 2 OF THE CRITE
Concept and Ideas: Yara Abdellatif will be presenting his label KALASIRIS which captures the essence of the traditional kalasiris garment, an ancient Egyptian genderless garment worn in various ways. This is a spring/summer collection titled SUFIA, inspired by a valley located in northern Egypt. There will be a strong emphasis on multi-functionality and versatility, with an ethical choice of fabrics and textures – eco friendly cottons, wools, linens and silks. All leftovers and scraps are used to make textiles through the collection. KALASIRIS’ adaptable and multi-functional features give each of the garments a unique and personal story.
Concept and Ideas: When the distance between designers, producers and consumers is reduced, fashion becomes more accessible and local. Through tearing down the boundaries between these three key parts of the fashion system, consumers can be empowered to interact and manipulate their garments. Can this emotional connection from collaboration and DIY creation be channeled into garments that stand the test of time, and help consumers to change their wasteful consumption? Using Kate Fletcher’s four key sustainability values – community, empathy, participation and resourcefulness – as the pillars for my design, my goal was to build emotional connection through communicating the process of making. Splitting the approach into two facets, I sought to create both aspirational and DIY garments, using the same techniques across the two methods. Focusing on building fabrications through traditional weaving and stitching techniques, the base fabrics are sourced locally, from op shops and end of rolls
EFWA 2017 General Students
Rebecca Timson (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: “Wildflower”. Inspired by Perth in Spring, this collection titled ‘Wildflower’ captures the majestic essence of Western Australia as it morphs into the most incredible array of floral splendour. ‘Wildflower’ is a collection of Re-cycled garments that are: Re-vitalised, Re-orientated, Re-Used and Re-Invented into Couture gowns. These gowns are designed to create a sense of luxury and glamour and to encapsulate floral elegance. Created using Couture Finishing’s, Handmade Embellishments with Machine, and Hand Embroidery. All unused fabric is incorporated into the gowns creating a zero-waste garment
Thivyah Retinasekharan (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: When Sustainable Architecture meets Sustainable Fashion.” There is a similarity between sustainable architecture and sustainable fashion as they both seek to minimise negative environmental impact. They both comply with the principles of social, ecological and economical sustainability. Sustainable architecture is the inspiration for my garments. Sustainable fashion is not the future but it is our present
Liana Marie McNeill (Final 3rd Year student) –
Concept and Ideas: This collection revolves around the idea of environmental destruction. It’s a protest collection that fights to raise awareness around our changing climate and fights against big corporations having the power to make decisions that affect the rest of the world and our environment, when all they are interested in is growing their business, no matter the cost. This collection style is inspired by the 1970’s protests, it was at this time that women started to rebel against what society told them they ‘should’ wear. I have put a modern twist on this idea by creating an all gender inclusive collection. I will be using natural fibres of cotton/linen and silk. These garments have been locally and ethically produced by me, and I hope to continue this throughout the journey of my brand. I have used the technique of tessellating to fit the pattern pieces together with minimal fabric waste. Although I haven’t quite reached zero waste, I am making a conscious effort to change the way fabric is wasted and reach zero waste within my brand in the near future. I am also using the application of traditional handmade textile techniques with needle felting to write words with the wool fibres onto the eco rust dyed cotton/linen. These pieces will make up only a portion of the garments, the rest will be made of silk with words written on in non-toxic Japanese ink.
Paige Groves (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: “Zero Waste Drape” and “Staple Made Stylish” incorporate as many sustainable elements as possible to create a modern and interesting design. As a result of my exploration of the white shirt throughout history and the elements within the classic white shirt structure, I have been able to recycle this traditional item of clothing to create a new representation and meaning without losing any of this iconic garment’s identifiable features and versatility. Similar to this is I have been strongly inspired by the techniques of folding and draping on the body to emphasise contour and create shape which has been embedded into the garments. Both outfits are interchangeable, easy to manipulate and wear in many different ways, which will suit the contemporary market and appeal to a wide audience. These outfits are sustainable due to modularity, minimal seams, 100% cotton composition, recycling of ideas and zero to minimal wastage. The mixture of soft folds and heaviness seen in my “Zero Waste Drape” outfit, compared to the crisp lines and flared seams as seen in my “Staple Made Stylish” outfit, demonstrates how I have been able to create luxurious and sculptural designs by using different sustainable techniques for each garment.
Abbey Forsyth (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: My garments aim to bring attention to the finer details of fashion, both referencing the art of sustainable of design. Simple design concepts shine light to the traditional form of folding and draping, as well as how tranquility and ‘flow’ can be incorporated into garments through innovative design. As well as overall aesthetic, I think the wearers experience is an important part of design, and both of my garments explore the interactivity between user and garment. As a designer, I aim to create original and off-centre garments through traditional means and techniques such as origami, draping, and traditional pattern making and manipulation. I stand for creating flattering and timeless garments that encourage the wearer to feel positive about themselves.
Molly Ryan (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: “This mini collection focused on the incorporation of the natural environment surrounding it’s creation. I have used all natural fibres and traditional eco dyeing techniques, alongside surface manipulation and feminine cuts and shapes to create wearable pieces of art. All garments have been designed in accordance with transparent means of production that align with my passion in reinvigorating the notion of dressing in synergy with nature.”
Ella Steiner (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: My garment is part of an ongoing investigation into the culture of the Maasai Tribes in Kenya. I have been inspired by the Maasai’s ‘Shuka’, a long length of fabric which they wrap and tie around the body. I’ve used no waste pattern cutting and traditional hand-made techniques: beaded embellishment and natural dyeing with avocado skins and seeds. I’m interested in how our fruit and vegetable waste could be utilised as a sustainable alternative to chemical colourings.
Ivee Gail Gualao (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: I am drawn to ethereal and flowy silhouettes and creating them through sustainable practices. I dabbled with zero-waste garment creation- from a rectangle piece of fabric into a multi-way dress; and upcycling old and outdated pieces into a wearable contemporary garment fit for the modern woman.
Kate Hannah (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: The pieces in this collection are made using almost wholly recycled and second-hand sourced materials, blending them with a minimal amount of new materials to create eco-friendly garments and accessories. I have reworked materials such as: – Denim sourced from second-hand jeans – Tartan and buckles from old kilts – Second-hand sourced yarn – Corduroy from second-hand pants/jackets – Knitted/crocheted pieces deconstructed from second-hand blankets – One particular innovation in this collection to note is my creation of my own sustainable textile (shown in outfit 2 – the jacket and skirt set). This textile is constructed using my little offcut threads of denim threads and wool, which would otherwise be waste
Claudia Marcial (2nd Year) –
Concept and Ideas: THE RECYCLED T SHIRT GARMENTS – For this collection I was highly inspired by Martin Margiela and his ‘Replica’ collection. Each garment is modular and can be worn in different ways. I have taken a risk in my garments by leaving raw edges and as the garments were created with recycled shirts makes the collection eco-friendly. FEATHER GOWN. The dress I created is a fabric wrapped around the body with no material being wasted making the garment zero waste and eco-friendly. It is also 100% sustainable as it is a cotton fabric with very minimal seams.